Splendid Isolation - Sun 02/11/25

Still off grid - day three and recalling the pre-internet era -

• No emails to check (social not work)

• No social media - it's the same pictures/posts

• No look up's on what to visit

• And the plus is you can't check how bad the cricket/football sides you support are doing

It's something a whole generation has never experienced and means you have to actually talk to people more if you need to find out something /somewhere. At the moment it's novelty but does present a few challenges.

A day of separate adventures with the girls in the sea as usual and I'm off to the other end of the island. A 90 min ride to climb up a working lighthouse through various villages and using only other 'main road' on the island. I agree a price for a car and sure enough a tuk tuk has appears which will be fun as these are usually really for short distance rides. The car has broken down apparantly but I am told I have a packed lunch provided which is a bottle of cold water, a banana and a bar of cadburys' dairy milk which has a best before date of 2022 but it is chilled at the moment.

We trundle through various villages which was lovely to see the local communities, planatations of mango, banana,papaya and rice fields. The driver is not only very skilled which is good as the road is now resembling a rough track but also great company and speaks excellent english so time goes very quickly. The weather has turned and now in a heavy downpour, the ride is a bit like one of the 1980's sit arcade games and bikes getting stuck until the mud cleared out of the wheels

Eventually got to the Lighthouse and the customary sign in , no other visitors in the last four days not quite Race across the World but still feels like a semi-achievement. 120 steps later and now at the top views stunning, staircases creaking and crumbling but generally fine.  Easier journey back with a couple of small monkeys for company running across the roads.

Managed to make a couple of phone calls at last but no Internet which was great and a text from my travel chum OT (Full name Oil Tanker - from a previous wander) advising a rare win for the Hammers 

Lovely dinner at Afro beach , prawn curry, cold cider,  great sunset and beach fire.

let's see what tomorrow holds getting off Mafia 

Clare & Robys' day

We have fallen in love with this beautiful place.  

Another day of separate adventures with Robyn and I off early by tuk tuk to travel to Utende. The area is far south of Mafia Island and a protected Marine Park. The ride across the island an experience. Seeing the life of people who live here is a window into another world, a privilege to see and be aware of. Most of the people who live here draw water from wells, accommodation incredibly basic and loos in public usually the squat drop and bucket of water. It is a reflective experience and I hope our tourist visit to the island is supportive of the economy not intrusive into this different world. 

Back to the trip. We arrive in Utende to be greeted by Rebbi, our expert guide for the day and his boatman. Tide times mean we have a little wait, so time for a quick drink before the off.  

Utende beach 

With the dodge dolphin experience still relatively fresh in our minds, it was super to have a brilliant, skilled guide in Rebbi. We arrived at the first coral garden, donned snorkels and masks and in to explore. No cameras, just memories or the underwater journey around the coral garden. Rebbi navigated through and around the garden so we explored loads. It’s easy to get lost and discombobulated underwater and pulled by currents and a different league when you can relax, swim far and just enjoy the reef. We saw parrot fish, zebra fish and angel fish. None of the slightly more potentially scary species that is usual on a reef – the lion fish, stone fish and morays. We knew they were there, but it felt like the day was smiling and Robyn felt happy to see the less hazardous creatures. 

Lots of coral here looked health, but even in this quiet, protected area lots looked damaged and bleached. We were told that it is improving and that the conservation status is making a difference.  

Back on the boat and on to second and very different coral garden. Another great exploration around and through the reef – our aim was to find a blue star fish and Robyn was the lucky spotter. I love being underwater – the feeling of weightlessness, and I guess almost like walking in space.  

This was technically the last of our activities, but we spoke with Rabbi and negotiated another trip to see the Blue Lagoon. We went back to Utende for a quick lunch then round three. 

Oh I am so glad we did. Travelled up a stunning mangrove creek …. 

….to be greeted by one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen 

By luck we were the only people there. Rabbi advised us to wear shoes and follow up a steep climb to the middle of this small island where we stepped up to see…… 

We clambered down to swim & it was fabulous.  

We scramble back to the beach and boat. 

I am so glad we visited and it was such fun to share with Robyn. 

Back to base (well, Afro Beach, usual meeting place as still no comms between us all with internet shutdown continuing). 

Just when you think the day has been amazing already, we experience the sunseat at Afro Beach.